DUAL PERSONALITY

A Madrona bistro proves you can be both polished and neighborly

Opened in 1992, Dulces made a name for itself as a tiny West Seattle bakery and cafe. Three years later it was reborn in its larger but still intimate Madrona setting, concentrating solely on  dinner. Like so many neighborhood restaurants, it has been embraced by patrons who share its zip code - though it deserves greater recognition as a destination dining spot for those who don't.
 
Running the room is co-owner and host Carlos Kainz, whose professional demeanor, coupled with a dose of Latin suave, could make him a fortune - if he could bottle that. He's partnered here and at home with chef Julie Guerrero, who works behind a cinched swath of velvet curtain in a cutaway kitchen, meeting and greeting with a saucepan in one hand, tongs in the other. Born and raised in Seattle, Guerrero is a South Seattle Community College culinary-school grad whose exceptional desserts - including an extraordinary pecan pie, cajeta (a Mexican caramel and chocolate tart), and a changing roster of exceptional bread puddings - explain why the restaurant takes the Spanish name for "sweets."

Kainz and Guerrero share a Mexican heritage, one that informs the menu but does not exclusively define it. Guerrero is not doing trendy "Nuevo Latino" in her kitchen. Sure, she does "Latino" - as evident in her delicious Green Chicken Enchiladas. But there's nothing too "Nuevo," Latino or otherwise, about such French classics as an Cassoulet, Beef Bourguignon or her Spanish Paella Valenciana

There's a cross-cultural marriage in the red-pepper ravioli, plumped with mozzarella and ricotta and swinging to a Latin beat with an infusion of chorizo and cilantro. Prawns la diabla, in a butter sauce hinting of orange and sparked with chilies, is a spicy starter worthy of every last swipe of crusty bread.

Calamari, sautéed and tweaked with balsamico and fresh herbs, mingles with olive oil, garlic, and tomatoes.  Dulces' house greens come punched up with excellent dressings, including a stellar vinaigrette flavored with walnut oil and smoky roasted walnuts.
 
Most entrees are available in half-portions, including a stunning Argentinean Carne Asada with Chimichurri. With savory rice, and sautéed green vegetables,
 
Dulces Latin Bistro
1430 34th Ave
Seattle
206 322 5453

Dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5:00pm-9:30pm,  Appetizers: $8-$14, Entrees: $17-$24 (half-portions available).
Happy Hour daily 5 pm to 7 pm

Visa, MC  or Discover cards accepted. 10% cash discount Wheelchair access.

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